Once upon a time, I lived in a faraway land called Kendall. For those who are unfamiliar with that unincorporated part of Miami-Dade County, Kendall can seem like a faraway land with it’s own culture, expressions, and rules of traffic. For those who know Kendall but have been away for a while, a recent visit will make it seem like it has been “once upon a time” since you’ve last been there. It seems as if every time I return to Kendall, something old has been replaced with something new that is a dramatic improvement from what used to be there. Take Town & Country Mall, for instance. It was a fun hangout in the early nineties, but by the time Y2K came around, it was dead. After the AMC movie theater closed, there seemed to be little hope for reviving what had once promised to be a thriving commercial and nightlife center...that is until the mall rebranded itself as The Palms at Town & Country Mall, polished its image, and invited more upscale retailers like Loehman’s and Nordstrom Rack to move in (trust me, that’s light years ahead of what used to be there). Dining in Kendall is also improving, especially at the new and improved mall, with Devon Seafood + Steak set to open its doors tomorrow.
This is the restaurant’s first venture into South Florida after having already been well established in cities like Chicago and Philadelphia. The contemporary American restaurant promises moderate prices, an elegant ambiance featuring reclaimed wood accents and a glass-encased wine cellar, and unique interpretations of American ingredients by Scott Barrow. A New England mainstay, lobster rolls, make an appearance on the appetizer menu in miniature form served with watercress and Old Bay spiced fries. Jumbo lump crab cakes offer a taste of the Big Easy with a creole remoulade, as well as a nod to new Florida cooking with a mango tartar sauce. Oyster aficionados will have a selection of fresh East Coast oysters with varieties such as Beau Soleil from New Brunswick, Salt Ponds from Point Judith, Quivett Creek from Rhode Island, and Rhode Island Wilds.
Entrées paint a rich picture of our country’s diverse culinary heritage with innovative dishes that draw from different traditions. A Louisiana-inspired black grouper with sweet potato maque choux, crawfish, Andouille and espelette pepper sauce sounds particularly promises a zesty mouthful, while a pretzel crusted trout with herb roasted potatoes, haricot vert, endive, and bacon mustard vinaigrette pays homage to the German dishes that have permeated into our cuisine. Steaks are carefully selected from Jackman Wagyu Beef Ranch, promising diners some of the most succulent steaks in Miami. To keep things interesting, Devon lets the seasons decide the side dishes, allowing for a completely new dining experience at different times of the year.
And what’s a good restaurant without a great happy hour? From Monday through Friday, from 4:00 PM to 7:00 PM, Devon will host a happy hour in the bar and on the outdoor patio that overlooks one of Kendall’s signature canals. Enjoy $6 glasses of house wine and champagne, as well as drinks like the Pink Pops, a concoction of X-Rated Fusion Liqueur (premium French vodka with blood orange and Brazilian passion fruit) topped with Domain St. Michelle Brut. For those wishing to nibble in between sips, oysters will be offered for $1 a piece, as well as $3 lobster claws.
Devon Seafood + Steak
Inside The Palms at Town & Country Mall
11715 Sherri Lane
Miami, FL 33183