White is the New Black
What do you wear when you have nothing to wear? The go-to, monochromatic, sartorial fallback of an all black look, of course. This season, designers (literally, almost all of them) have presented a “brighter” option for our old monochromatic standby, showing head to toe winter-ready white in the form of chic eveningwear, tailored pantsuits and everything in between. Lyn Devon goes super sweet and retro chic with a modest angora sweater and tea-length duchesse satin skirt. Cushnie et Ochs offer winter white separates as sleek tailored trousers paired with a sheer collared top make the trend as seductive as their curve-hugging dresses. Alexander Wang doesn’t disappoint with his edgy twist, detailed with pearlescent fringe and black fishnet stockings.
Far East Focus
Embroidery, embellishment, flourish—all describe the elaborate influence the far east has brought to Fall 2012 collections. Old-world elegance and dynasty-worthy sophistication characterize the opulent frocks we’re dying to turn heads in this season. Balmain’s embroidered dress and vest pairing maintains their hand-worked quality with ornate crystal and gold thread detailing. Jason Wu’s eastern focus comes honestly from his Asian influence. Inspired by three different influences Chinese heritage has on fashion, he employed mandarin collars and embroidered epaulets for strikingly authentic looks. The floral tapestry prints and silk panel details at Rag & Bone put us in mind of cherry blossoms and a far away world.
The days of highly literal military details have come and gone and this season brings an updated version of the trend that foregoes oversized epaulets and shiny brass buttons for luxurious fabrics and streamlined silhouettes—military chic if you will. Less look at me and more wearability defines this season’s armory-inspired looks. Military met gypsy (a strange combination we know) at Altuzarra and the result was skinny cargo pants tucked into thigh-high, tasseled boots finished with warm, fur-collared peacoats. Adding some edge to her usual uber feminine style, Victoria Beckham does military chic with narrow shifts detailed with gold-buttoned epaulets and pockets and waist-cinching belts. Expertly tailored, streamlined silhouettes, and bold yet simple layering define Elizabeth and James Fall 2012 collection. A military green parka layered over a crisp collared dress and black tights give the masculine trend a touch of femme.
Leather takes on high shine as designers add a slippery wet finish to the classic material. Outerwear, party frocks, and slick separates are all subject to a coat of glossy sheen, proving laminated leather isn’t just for raincoats anymore. In the dark finale of his final collection for Jil Sander, Raf Simons introduced lacquered leather as a naughty-meets-nice strapless, tea-length gown. J.W. Anderson’s shiny separates shown in port wine, pumpkin, and steel are perfect hues for fall. Bold color and a throwback to the sixties pop art inspired Marni’s mustard yellow overcoat complete with oversized pockets, a belted waist, and a complementary fur collar.
Go Big or Go Home
Relaxed fit is an understatement for Fall’s larger than life outerwear and wide-legged trousers. Roomy enough to layer over the season’s chunky knits and knobby tweeds, remember bigger is better when purchasing your statement overcoat come winter. And while bulky outerwear is super chic paired with a skinny pant, embrace the comfort of expertly tailored wide trousers and reap the benefits of this elongating trend. Photographer Andre Kertesz inspired Acne’s unusual, oversized silhouettes, and the stiff oxblood leather of this belted overcoat added to its bulkiness. Outerwear stole the show at Celine, with their drop-shoulders, leather martingales, and shockingly hot pink fur. Proenza Schouler’s boxy leather jackets with zipper detailing and loose, floor-grazing trousers in waxy black leather make the oversized trend official for fall.